Framing

• 3/4” Baltic Birch Plywood cut 2.5” wide

• 1/4-20” & 10-32 Plus Nuts, Machine Screws & Washers

• 1 1/4” Kreg Pocket Hole Screws

• Titebond 2 Premium Wood Glue

• To easily attach the walls, ceiling and cabinetry in place

• Embrace the curve of your van, but try to make the lower section as squared as you can, otherwise you can stencil your cabinetry to the wall

• Use plusnuts in the van rib holes

  • I have more confidence in plus nuts then rivets and self-tapping screws

  • Avoid drilling into the metal of your van, like self-taping screws, to prevent rust

• Break the walls into three sections: the lower section, middle section and upper section

• No need to use anything thicker than 3/4”

• For the ceiling furring strips, I used 1/2” baltic birch

  • Save on head space

  • Easier to flex to the curve

  • No reason for anything thicker

• No framing

  • Stencil all your cabinetry to the van curve and attach directly to the van

• Only add furring strips where needed for your layout

  *I think it’s easier to have a foundation that you can screw into at any point in the build - framing gives you a foundation to build off of moving forward

I’d do my framing the same exact way with the same materials and technique.