Subfloor & Final Floor

Subfloor

- 1/2” Baltic Birch Plywood with Thompson’s Water Seal
  *No insulation material
  *Didn’t fasten the subfloor down
- Foundational structure for the rest of the build
- To screw cabinetry directly to the subfloor for extra security
- Make a cardboard template if a floor mat did not come with your van to trace.
- I don’t believe in insulating the floor - heat rises and the floor will be cold regardless - save on weight, time, money & height
  - Solution for when the floor is cooler: heated floor pad or radiant floor heating, lay a rug, wear socks or slippers
  - I’ve been in vans with insulated floors and they are still cold
- Leave a 1/4” gap around the entire subfloor perimeter to account for expansion
- No need to secure your subfloor in place - the cabinetry on top will keep it in place
- Have the subfloor seams go side to side, instead of front to back to avoid issues in the galley
- Don’t fill the section in between the van floor ribs, those are there for a reason to help with airflow under the floor and prevent moisture from getting trapped
I’d do my subfloor the same exact way. 1/2” plywood, seams going side to side and no insulation with a 1/4” perimeter gap.

- 12 volt Heating Pad from Expedition Upfitter
- To keep the floor warm while in colder climates
- 12 volt is more efficient if you have a 12 volt battery bank because no conversion is necessary to power the load
- Don’t daisy chain these specific mats
- These mats can be cut to length, but not width
- This does more to keep the floor warm than insulating the subfloor
- Make sure whatever material you are installing it over and under is able to have a heat source in contact
- I installed it where I’ll be standing in place the most - between my kitchen and dresser, instead of the sliding door entrance
- I put the on/off switch in the frame of my driver bunk window by the bed so it is centrally located and I can turn it on and off from bed
- Radiant heated floors
  - Uses hot water through hoses inset into the subfloor
- Insulate the subfloor with XPS
  - Won’t make the floor warm - best to use a heat mat or radiant heat
- Lay a rug, wear socks and slippers to keep your feet warm
Although I don’t use it much, I love it when I do. It pulls very little power and keeps the floor toasty.

- Luxury Vinyl Planks (floating floor)
- Floor Nosing with Nails in Sliding Door Entrance
  *My overall floor is less than 3/4” thick, which was intentional for more head space since I’m so tall
- No gluing
- Strong connection that is water tight
- Scratch resistant
- Durable
- Different colors and design choices
- Install a floating floor after installing your cabinets, not under your cabinets
  - Saves on material, money and weight
  - The final flooring won’t buckle and can be easily replaced if needed
- Leave a 1/4” gap around the entire perimeter
  - Use quarter round molding and brad nails to cover the 1/4” gaps after
  - ‍Screw or nail a nosing strip in the sliding door entrance to cover the flooring end
- Stagger where each board ends to create a strong locking floor
- Start in the furthest inside space and work towards the sliding door.
- Install the floor towards the very end of your build to avoid spills or damages that could be caused by the build process
- Vinyl sheets
  - I’d avoid vinyl sheets and glue down options
I love my floor and it has held up so well over time. I’d do everything the same again.